Drop edge fabrication
On rounded corners: If the corner has a large enough radius, the edging can be thermo-formed to fit. If not, it will need to be stacked at the corners. Drop edges are usually fine for curved, or serpentine edges, but the labor to thermoform might be more than the extra material cost for a stacked edge. Edges will need to be doubled up if the profile cuts through too much material, or has a wider radius than the material on the top or bottom (case in point: a 3/4" radius on the bottom, or a 5/8" ogee at the top). Glue blocks should be considered for longer drops of the edge.
As with V-grooving, when the top is placed over cabinetry, the edge will not usually be solid surface all the way back to the cabinets. This is usually not a problem, but does not afford the protection from excess moisture that a stacked edge will provide.
Drop face edge
Description: A piece of material is cut from the sheet the full thickness of the edge, less the deck thickness (usually 1/2"). The edging is then glued up underneath the front edge of the deck sheet.
Variations: This is a fairly simple way to glue edges straight tops. It is also effective for drop apron, or drop skirt tops. Edges can be doubled up, where needed. The join can be cut at a bias for angled returns underneath. If a splash is formed to a particular shape, the deck can be dropped on and routed to that shape, making the edge a form to fit to, as well as a splash in use.
Applications: While not as labor efficient as V-grooving, it works with curved situations where V-grooving cannot. A glue block is especially necessary here, and should be allowed for in the design of any web support, or vertical stiffener. Drop edges also save on material, in situations when the sheet size can accommodate splash, deck, and splash.
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